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The food at this small café comes from the Chinese region of Henan, right on the Yellow River, regarded as the country’s cradle of modern capitalism. The menu is organized around its wonderful hui mei – broad homemade wheat noodles something like fettuccine, which can be served in soups or with various stews poured over them. Highly recommended is the hui mei with spicy brisket sauce, which might almost remind you of a European stew. The soups are based on lamb or beef broths that are nearly opaque and dotted with small red dates called jujubes for a slight sweetness. The most shareable dish is “spicy big tray chicken,” a humongous pile of poultry enriched with mouth-numbing Sichuan peppercorns.