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This Egyptian old-timer Suez Canal specializes, somewhat obsessively, in fish. Whole fish (sea bass, red mullet, and porgy) are dusted with whole wheat flour, grill-blackened, then doused with salt water-you must peel off the skin to get at the succulent flesh. Then there are red-sauced stews of squid and shrimp, and huge grouper fillets, which arrive lightly breaded and laked in a tart garlic sauce. Apart from these seagoing selections, the only other options are chile-heaped fried eggplant, a perfunctory salad, and dirty rice-making you think there's a Cajun back in the kitchen somewhere.