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Fleeing a thronged beer festival at the seaport, we found Suteishi an oasis of color and quiet, a block or so north of the tourist throng. The place specializes in sushi, but with several jazzy side-specialties such as screaming hot rocks--the usual steak or mushrooms seared sizzling on a flat stone. Skip em in favor of the well-constructed rolls, made with fish whose freshness won't knock you out, but is perfectly fine nonetheless. Our fave was the mermaid roll, comprising seared yellowtail, scallions, and wasabi tobiko, the latter ingredient found in many of Suteshi's more-novel inventions. Salads are another strong point, which is unusual for a sushi bar, including one with heirloom tomatoes and another that features crab and yellow mustard.