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You’ll want to pay a visit to this Lower Hell’s Kitchen ramen shop whose soup style recalls Rai Rai Ken or Menkui-Tei even if you aren’t scrambling for a speedy meal before hopping a Greyhound bus at nearby Port Authority. Most of the bowls are fashioned with a chicken-stock base and piled high with wiry, toothsome strands, all the better for sexy slurping action. Don’t miss the sesame-flavored tan tan mien, the porky kyushuu, and the simple, salt-flavored shio ($8)—the Asian grandma’s answer to Jewish penicillin. And for something a bit more exotic, opt for the namesake, imbued with Southeast Asian flair, thanks to a hearty dose of coconut milk, red onion, and cilantro.