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This Japanese-Korean grill-it-yourself spot distinguishes itself with a focus on offal--or horumon, meaning something that's thrown away. "Yakitori-horumon" (basically, grilled variety meats) is a restaurant style invented by Korean immigrants to Japan shortly after World War II. Here, it's beef, beef, and nothing but beef. Try a few cold dishes--like sesame-seeded raw beef liver, or boiled Achillesâ€š tendons in chile oil--before turning to your tabletop grill. Bits of wine-dark heart sputter and smoke beefily; sweetbreads turn firm but creamy over the fire. Add a plate of kimchi or cruditĂ©s with spicy mayo to counteract all that cow.