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Ignore the kitschy décor at this wonderful Siamese restaurant, which offers a countrywide menu of regional specialties, with plenty of dishes from Chiang Mai in the far north along the Burmese border. Typical of this region are khao soi, a curried coconut-milk soup that features both fried and boiled versions of the same egg noodles, and the pungent "stewed beef soup" which is really a stew. All the typical curries are available from the southern and middle regions of the country, many of which tend to be mild. Finally, Isaan in the northeast is represented by a fabled barbecued chicken, which can be had on a platter with two other specialties from the same region: green papaya salad and sticky rice.