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Tamarind Tribeca is like an upscale Indian Shopsin's, with a sprawling menu that offers regional dishes from every part of the subcontinent. Some of them are relatively obscure to American audiences--sweet Afghani naan, spicy Marathi chicken, Kashmiri pulao, Keralan chicken with coconut milk and curry leaves. The restaurant does not employ an executive chef, preferring to rely on a team of chefs, each with his or her specialties. The unorthodox approach is effective: Tamarind Tribeca's food is mainly great. Don't miss the pickled venison chops.