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This elegant successor to Uncle Tang's specializes in Shanghai and Soo Chow, food of the Chinese diaspora in Southeast Asia. From the regular menu come drunken chicken, with a fumy flavor from the rice-wine marinade, and pork with preserved vegetables-thick slices of fresh bacon and tufts of spinach in a fragrant sludge the color of mahogany. You must ask for the Chinese menu (which has English translations) for other delicacies like crisp-fried baby eel. The pop music background would be hard to tolerate if the food weren't so good.