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Named after a region of southern Rome famous for its nightclubs and nose-to-tail restaurants, Testaccio offers a contemporary take on the modern food of Italy's capital. Organ enthusiasts will go for the trippa in umido--a steaming crock of braised tripe, crusted with pecorino and scented with mint. The fried artichoke appetizer is another lure, though there ought to be a bit more of it at the price. Oxtail--a Roman passion--is available as a terrine and a stew, both exceptional, but one of the restaurant's best dishes is the egg-drop soup known as stracciatella, with floating rafts of spinach and parmesan cheese. For light meals, the wood-oven pizzas are as good as any in Queens.