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The menu at Andrew Carmellini's Soho venture hopscotches across our mighty country while giving props to Japan, Mexico, Italy, and beyond. Be forewarned: The restaurant is deafeningly loud, and service could be more attentive. But the food makes a visit worthwhile. Menu highlights include the oyster sliders, dressed crab, asparagus okonomiyaki, lamb neck mole, rabbit pot pie, and fried chicken. For dessert, opt for the tropical rice pudding or one of the many excellent pies on rotation. Ironically, there's no Dutch fare, but given what he's accomplished here, no doubt Carmellini could make army-green pea soup sparkle.