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The garlicky skirt steak with kimchi rice and a fried egg wobbling on top is only one of many reasons this restaurant has so many devoted fans. The Good Fork's wood-beamed, tight space feels like the inside of a ship (with better food), which is appropriate because it's tucked away in nautical Red Hook. The chef is Korean-American; she deploys Korean flavors with finesse, and also has a way with New American plates. There's hardly a misstep in the bunch- dumplings are thin-skinned and juicy, filled with pork and chives. The seared crab cake is fat and crabby, and the burger is a beefy wonder.