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This Taiwanese restaurant has strayed pretty far south of the Chinese restaurant pack in Sunset Park. It"s a lighthearted, low-key place with lots of interesting stuff on the menu. Start with "three-cup chicken," a legendary recipe that allegedly features a cup of a cup of rice wine, a cup of soy sauce, and a cup of rice-wine vinegar. Whatever is in it, it"s damn good, flavored with a special variety of Asian basil unique to Formosa. Other specialties include "pork geng thick soup," flavored with black vinegar, and delectable radish pancakes. If you dare, sample the "crispy smelly bean curd," made from fermented tofu. It"s not as bad as you think, though there is a stray whiff reminiscent of vomit that accompanies the arrival of the dish.