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In the contemporary style of such places, the Lion acts as if it doesn"t want you to eat there, and reservations in the lovely rear room are made available only at the most absurd times. Chances are, you"ll be seated in the area between bar and street, where the smell of the effluvia blowing into the subterranean windows is particularly foul. The menu--via former Waverly Inn chef John DeLucie--is a mixed bag: the excellent asparagus salad, for example, features white and greens spears with mushrooms and a wobbly egg that provides sauce, while the lobster pot pie is a soupy mess without much lobster. The noise level tends to be deafening.