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The economy's downturn has elevated so many dishes that were considered below our notice before. Now the humble meatball comes rolling our way, exulted to the level of a glamorous entrée. Check out the handsome premises of the Meatball Shop--decorated with deconstructed meat grinders--and note the large variety of meatball-matching opportunities. Start out with the exemplary meatball hero: Made with beef balls and excellent mozzarella, it's the best meatball hero in town. The lamb meatballs, when available, are even better, and the pork version's good, too, but skip the salmon balls and vegetarian balls. Also wonderful are the various combinations of cookies and ice cream made into dessert sandwiches.