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Chef Angelo Romano, formerly of Masten Lake, welcomes locals and food nerds alike to his cozy Gowanus dining room with exciting, modern fare. Dishes like hot, creamy Japanese yams loaded with buttermilk froth and tiny anchovies sit next to reworked classics like a ballotine of pheasant, paired with raw peanuts and celery. Diners can catch a glimpse of the chef working in the open kitchen while they relax with a casual but professional front-of-house team. The environment has a touch of Brooklyn swagger—with chefs in baseball caps and hip-hop on the stereo—but the food illustrates precise, thoughtful technique without showing off. Don’t leave without ordering a pasta dish.