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Ranger picks up where Pearson's Texas Barbecue left off, in the rear of a Jackson Heights sports bar. As the Belmont Stakes were run to a cheering bar crowd, we thoroughly enjoyed the brisket sandwich, ever so moist but, according to Scott, not smoky enough, while the barbecued sausage-something in the pepper-shot hot-links mode-turned out perfect in every way, especially deposited on the Portuguese roll of yore. Pork ribs are also good, but the pulled pork is a mushy disaster. Note the handful of Mexican dishes now available, like short-rib flautas, but stay away.