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Despite the dull-as-dishwater name, The Smith is among the finest gastropubs in the city. The lamb schnitzel sings with flavor, and you get two massive slabs poised on a potato salad zapped with French grebiche sauce, laced with mustard and capers. The joint pays special attention to vegetables, and any of the salad choices is superb, especially the so-called knife and fork Caesar salad, which has a transportingly good vinaigrette, and huge, cheese-embedded croutons. Drinks are on the expensive side, but the grub is inexpensive and compelling, and the place is big enough that you can probably get in anytime without reservations.