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On the site of the previous Xelaju, Tierras also enjoys the distinction of being the only Guatemalan restaurant in town. Which is a shame, because the cuisine is among the world's most interesting. So skip the Salvadoran side of the menu, and head for revolcado, a hearty stew of pork chunks and cow hearts, neatly uniting two major recipes popular in Guatemala. The broth is brown and dense and spectacularly savory. In a lighter vein, caldo de camarones is a good collection of medium-size, head-on shrimp in a sprightly chowder flavored with the leaves and shoots of the pito tree, known as chipilin and possessing reputed soporific properties. Google it. We're woozy already!