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Torrisi Italian Specialties, which began life in 2010 as a sandwich shop and restaurant serving $45 four-course meals cooked by two CafĂ© Boulud and Del Posto vets, has spawned an empire of three restaurants and three sandwich shops, including splashy retro orgy Carbone and haute crudo destination ZZâ€™s Clam Bar. Chef Mario Carbone now mostly presides over his namesake, while the flagship location of Torrisi on Mulberry Street is very much Rich Torrisiâ€™s domain. Having tinkered with courses, added a more substantial dessert program, and moved the sandwich operation next door to Parm, Torrisi now serves a nine-course menu of Italian-American â€” inspired small plates for $100. The chefâ€™s warm, fresh mozzarella is the curd heard â€™round NYC, and for good reason: The pliant, stretchy mound pulls like taffy, with a concentrated richness. The kitchen freezes bushels of summer corn during peak season to use throughout the year for the polenta that accompanies tender Wagyu short rib. Itâ€™s detail-oriented touches like these â€” along with the charming, Lilliputian dining room â€” that help solidify this restaurantâ€™s reputation for a uniquely progressive approach to Italian-American dining.