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Go for solid French bistro classics, made with plenty of butter and no pretension. Calf's liver is smothered in silken caramelized onions,drinkable house wine come in generous carafes, and paté is coarse and hearty. If the mashed potatoes are leaden, the people-watching more than makes up for it. A steady cast of French-speaking regulars have been coming here since the place opened 60 years ago, and the same family is still at the helm.