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At this Bronx branch of the Little Italy place where Colombo crime family capo Joey Gallo was rubbed out, stick with the seafood done in the style of southernmost Italy-including Apulia, Calabria, and Sicily. You'll never taste a better seafood salad: shrimp, conch, and squid gobbed with megatons of garlic. As with many of the seafood salads and red-sauced entrées at Umbertos Clam House, it arrives inscrutably accompanied by a pair of very hard biscuits, which must be softened in the remaining dressing or sauce. Umberto's famous seafood-dipping sauce comes in mild, medium, and hot varieties; the latter is hot enough to sear flesh.