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Vanessa's delivers a slightly upscale rendition of a Chinatown dumpling stall, plus sushi. The pork-scallion potstickers, for example, are exactly twice the price you'd pay on Allen or Eldridge, and every bit as good, while the chicken-mushroom dumplings were even better. Delivered eight to a plate with a salad, they make a good light meal. But the standard aromatic-beef sandwich had been altered, using a bun-size sesame bread, with no fragrance to the beef whatsoever. Best bet: the cheap, tasty half pint of hot and sour soup, rife with bean curd, mushrooms, and lily buds. It's really spicy, too.