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Closed late in 2005 for real estate reasons, this old favorite has moved around the corner from its original Park Avenue South digs and reopened with a spacious modern dining room that owes a little too much to Ikea. The food, however, remains fantastic, from the gnocco fritters served with prosciutto to the chunks of parmesan drizzled with balsamic to the tortellini in brodo, all reflecting the culinary heritage of Emilia-Romagna. Thrill to a selection of 14 reasonably priced lambruscos, then use them to wash down your choice of three tortollonis, which are like tortellinis on steroids. Altogether, Via Emilia remains one of the choicest and most reasonably priced Italians in town.