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This barbecue spot is decorated in meticulous high kitsch-cattle brands burned into the wood by the door; Formica tables; weathered, beaten-up wooden walls; and kerosene lanterns above the well-stocked bar. The barbecue and sides here are a mixed bag, but you can enjoy a very good dinner provided you pick the good stuff, and that you leave your expectations for authenticity outside. A spot that serves blueberry-chile barbecue sauce is not going to rival your cherished memories of Texas or Kansas City 'cue. Surprisingly, that sauce is really delicious. The best of the meaty bunch is the beef short rib. It's so big that it looks like a femur, with large-grained meat that pulls off the bone in moist shreds and tastes faintly of hickory smoke. The "well-peppered" pork belly is an oddly likable thing: like well-done bacon, very crispy and even a little bit tough, but well-peppered as advertised-it would be great in a BLT.