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Sure, the summer rolls and mixed-pork banh mi (the legendary Vietnamese hero) are mouth-watering at World of Taste. So is the pho-a rice-noodle soup based on long-simmered beef bones scented with star anise and freighted with homemade beef balls and eye of round that cooks as the bowl is brought to the table. The place was once a seafood market, but has now morphed into the city's best Viet restaurant. Look to the back of the menu for the rarer specialties from Hue (pronounced "Way"), a city in the slender center of the country. Included are bun bo hue, a fiery soup of sliced beef, pork pate, and scallions; and vun mang vit, a novel duck-and-bamboo-shoot soup that tastes bland with the first bite, but grows on you like a goiter, especially when you mix in the ginger condiment.