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Descended from a food stall in the Golden Mall in Flushing, Xi'an Famous Foods replicates noodle and lamb dishes from the province of Shaanxi, where chili oil and Asian cumin are the predominant flavors, and noodles are often sluiced with a toasted-sesame tahini, as well. The wheat-flour noodles are made as you watch by a fascinating pinching and pulling process, resulting in thick noodles of varying width. Innovatively, this small stall offers color photos of all the offerings, which is a boon to getting exactly what you want. My current fave is D2, which includes noodles, chili oil, lamb, and Sichuan peppercorns for a prodigious burn. For vegetarians, A1--cold Liang Pi noodles with dark soy and intriguing boxcars of spongy gluten.