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At half the price of Midtown estiatorios, Yiasou ("Cheers") offers a slightly reduced roster of whole fish on ice, but a larger proportion are local or sustainable. The lightly crumbed and lovingly fried flounder is a high point of the menu, as are the occasionally available grilled sardines, which are sweet and meaty and a gorgeous shade of steel blue. Appetize with the beet and scordalia salad, or the cheese ignited tableside known as saganaki. The colorful room opens to salty Sheepshead Bay breezes in fine weather on this hopping restaurant strip. Bone up on Greek wines before you go; the reds in particular are lovely and well-priced.