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"Yuba" is the Japanese word for tofu skin, and you'll find the namesake ingredient in several dishes at this new restaurant from George Ruan and Jack Wei, who became enamored with the soy product when they worked at Masa. It is better when grilled as an appetizer, served with sweet miso and kinome, than in the "layered pouch" with mushrooms. But one of the best plates to sample in this intimate, zen-like space is the risotto-style uni rice. Soy-based foods might be veggie-friendlier, but this sea urchin-topped delight will make you happy you're an omnivore (or at least a pescatarian).