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Exemplar of a modern restaurant genre that might be termed Hipster Chinese, Yunnan Kitchen seeks to produce a menu from a remote region of southwestern China for an audience not well versed in the cuisine. In doing so, the place is only partly successful, though dishes such as fried potato balls with a soy-vinegar dip; cold noodles with ground pork, fresh herbs, and peanuts; and the marvelous tofu ribbon salad would be reason enough to visit. In general, though, the food is much blander than the regional designation would suggest, and a bit more expensive that it ought to be. The room is comfortable but crowded, and the open kitchen -- visible from both the dining room and the sidewalk – a welcome diversion.