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Spawned by a remarkable Isaan (northeastern Thailand) café in Jackson Heights, Zabb City specializes in dishes you're not likely to find at other Thais. That means loads of tart meat and seafood salads, oodles of noodles, and plenty of meal-size soups. What really knocked us out were the lush curries, especially a coconut-laced red curry made with duck. A sautée of chicken featuring fresh chile sauce with two kinds of peppers also impressed us, but be forewarned: in the heat scale of one through five, four is about as hot as any normal chile lover can stand.