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The sumptuous dining room is characterized by the precise placement of decorative objects: peasant costumes smothered in lace, prints of 19th-century Prague, farm implements, cut-crystal glassware, and ornamental battle-axes. The days of abundance may be gone, but the cuisine lives on in a nearly unbelievable lunch special that offers three courses and coffee. Tripe soup makes a spectacular starter, with chewy hunks of honeycomb tripe foundering in the chocolate brown broth. Most of the eight entrées are sided by a dumpling the size of a slow-pitch softball, dotted with caramelized onions and sliced like white bread. Whichever you choose, fling these porous slabs in the gravy lake.