On a side street in the East Village, a slice of Middle America: Elspeth Treadwell, wrapped in a big white apron, is baking treats and serving them with serious pots of tea (or "Scandinavian tea," a/k/a coffee) on mismatched china. The furniture and decor blend vintage nursery and Adirondack porch; the food's rich with butter and cheese, bacon and sausage, chocolate and coconut. Tea for one or two (pricey for this nabe, but cheaper than, say, the Plaza) includes everything from beef Wellington and pea shoots to cupcakes and sugar cookies. Try the French onion tart; have a truffle.
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