Presided over by Thomas Keller, this facsimile boulangerie in the Time Warner Center may be the closest most of us come to eating at the French Laundry. The baked goods are impeccable, including croissants, pans au chocolat, round crusty country loaves, and pastries that run from the rudimentary to the unspeakably elaborate. Star among sandwiches is pork tonnato, a weird twist on a northern Italian classic dressed with pickled purple onions and watercress, with the prosaic but perfect ham-and-cheese on a baguette coming in at a close second. There are also soups, green salads, and knockout chocolate chip cookies