With its black-and-white tiled floor and funhouse-mirrored dining room, it's hard to believe this (non-kosher) Jewish deli was founded in 1999, not 1939. By midtown standards the prices are reasonable, and the matzoh ball soup has been justifiably celebrated. Among the all-important meats, I wasn't impressed by the corned beef or pastrami, both sliced too thin, but the thick brisket sandwich knocked me out with its mellow meatiness. Ask for the gravy to be served on the side as a dip for the sandwich. Among the inevitable playful inventions, the "knishpuppy" wasn't half bad—a potato knish penetrated by two demi-weenies.