Let's begin with the most scrumptious dish on the menu: a free-range chicken for two ($43)—a pullet, really, the tender young flesh marshaled in sienna-skinned fragments across an oblong heap of arugula. At the first forkful, the arugula seems like an uninspired haystack, though one slicked with a lovely mustard vinaigrette. But upon excavation, you'll find a wealth of subsidiary delights, including chewy currants, crunchy almonds, tendrils of Moroccan-style preserved lemon, and, finally, luxuriantly large cubes of toasted bread, making this the most perfect panzanella you've ever tasted. As my dining companion and I flew at it with our forks, the thought occurred to us that this participatory bird might be the best date... More >>>