Somewhat stealthily, Chinese restaurants are becoming some of the city's best. Counter Culture recently identified Bamboo Pavilion in Bensonhurst as one example, tendering perfectly executed Sichuan fare of superior delicacy. Now, like a bull escaping from a pen, Hunan House has spectacularly debuted among the Korean restaurants of Northern Boulevard. It may be the first authentic Hunan restaurant in town, though Manhattan places like Hunan Pan and Hunan Balcony have been fecklessly name-checking the province since the 1970s, while offering little that was identifiably Hunanese. The province lies south of the Yangtze River, east of Sichuan, and... More >>>