As I stood in An Choi's entranceway waiting for my sandwich, I couldn't help but admire the décor: warm wall treatments quizzically stenciled with phone numbers (bicycle repairmen? Prostitutes?), small square tables surrounded by low stools, light bulbs with bare filaments that suggested a Third World market, and—running across the ceiling—thick cables that vibrate and swing, as if you'd just missed the last trolley of the evening. The narrow room takes a jog as it nears the open kitchen, and beyond that lurks a courtyard with a single communal table—perfect for late-night card games. An Choi strives to evoke Vietnam's urban vibe, and... More >>>