Ovelia Psistaria doesn't look like other Greek restaurants in Astoria: Missing are the iced displays of fish, barnyard animals rotating on spits, 3-D pictures of the Parthenon, and rustic taverna décor that have long characterized the neighborhood's Hellenic eateries. Instead, there's a long bar that twinkles like a starry sky with light-emitting diodes, slinging a menu of sweet, colorful cocktails that owe nothing to metaxa or ouzo. Lit by fixtures resembling ghosts dangling from the ceiling, the dining room ascends to an elevated rear platform flanked by smeary paintings of half-ruined boats. While the diverse décor doesn't quite hang together, neighborhood patrons seem to relish eating in a relentlessly... More >>>