Restaurants that mimic Parisian bistros have become so commonplace downtown that we hardly notice when a new one pops up. I've always found certain aspects annoyingthe pseudoantique advertising plac- ards, predictable menus, haughty waiters, and tendency to fail at replicating another time and place. With the recent appearance of Pastis, named after a somewhat nauseating anise liqueur that turns milky when diluted with water, the formula has finally been perfected for...
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By photo: Michael Kenneth Lopez
For better or worse, Pastis finally perfects the bistro formula.