Two days later my fingers still smelled. The culprit was tsebhe beghie ($18), deliciously bathing lamb cubes in the Ethiopian spice mixture berberé ("bare-bare-ay"). But Caffé Adulis isn't Ethiopian, it's Eritreanreferring to the coastal region that broke away in 1991 after 30 years of civil war. This Flatiron newcomer is the first to bistro-ize the cuisine, offering a menu mixing traditional dishes with invented ones. Murky color photos garnish a handsome barroom with wooden booths as hard as church pews; white-napped tables dot the comfortable... More >>>
By photo: Hiroyuki Ito
At Caffé Adulis, chef Ficre Ghebreyesus stands by his shrimp barka and two-tomato-gig.