Order a whole fish on a weekday afternoon and Mostafa Khalil—walled behind boxes of pastries—leaves his cash-register pulpit and strides to the front window. He examines the iced display, bending over to check a gill or two for freshness. The selection made, he ferries your trophy into the back, dusts it with sumac and sea salt, and rapidly grills it to blackness amid leaping flames, like a pharaonic Paul Prudhomme. Today the best fish is sea trout, but tomorrow it may be striped bass, mullet, or even salmon. Assembled on a series of plates, the meal ($12) is... More >>>