At first look, Grand Sichuan would seem to be another one of those small joints serving the Chinese food that has come to be a part of the daily life of busy Gothamites, with enough of a sprinkling of Chinese patrons to offer some claim to quality. Head inside and look closerthe Asian diners were brought by a United Nations tour guide and seem to be truly savoring their fare. The jig is up when the waitress arrives bringing not only the multipaged menu with its listing of seasonal specialties and other delights, but also a 26-page explanation of the menu's offerings and treatise on Chinese foodthis is not your average corner Chinese. The learned narrative on the food of the Sichuan region and a discussion of the differences between authentic Chinese food and its American derivative is a delightful and informative rant. On my first visit, I was so riveted that I almost forgot to order, much to the... More >>>
By photo: Hiroyuki Ito
Chef Zhuan Yun Lu turns a neighborhood eatery into a citadel of quality.