Obscurely berthed in the Bronx's Belmont section, Roberto's boasts a facade that looks like a ship's prow, with a row of eager customers extending out the door like a taut anchor line. If dinner were a lengthy affair, and the food expensive and mediocre—as with many of the nearby Arthur Avenue restaurants—the line might discourage you. But feeding people great food while turning thronged tables is Roberto's forte, and the queue moves rapidly at this no-reservations enclave. The interior is more hobbit cave than ship's galley, darkly hung with velvet curtains even where there seem to be no windows. Trencher tables traverse the room, so you're likely to be seated next to strangers. It's OK; the strangers are nice, and the fact that they've sought out the same out-of-the-way place unites you and them in a... More >>>