Sandwiched tightly between Indian restaurants just off 6th Street, La Madrastra is difficult to spot. Though the name means "stepmother" in Spanish, it also easily yields up "Madras." The food, too, sometimes makes sly reference to the restaurant's location. A recent special of sirloin steak wrapped in prosciutto and grilled ($16)not a bad ideacame sided with what looked like green beans. Except that the glistening beans were half the width and twice the length of normal green beans, leading to a mild sensation of vertigo. Turns out they were Indian drumsticks, a vegetable that tastes more... More >>>
By photo: Andrew Portnoy
Congeniality awaits unfussy food at Salvo Zapparatas (third from left) La Madrastra.