It was our luck to arrive as the independence celebration was in full swing, commemorating the day in 1818 when a guy with the unlikely name of O'Higgins dubbed himself supreme director. As we squeezed in the door, an elderly platinum blond in a cowboy hat and fringed vest circled the room. Trailed by a power-chording guitarist, she clutched a microphone and a red carnation as she belted patriotic songs, while the audience cacophonously chimed in on the choruses. It's a credit to the staff that they greeted us non-Chilenos warmly and found a table removed... More >>>