Though 118 Lucky is the most formidable of the Fuzhou cafés that have spread across the Lower East Side over the last five years—creating a new Chinatown centered at the corner of Allen and Grand streets—the premises are distinctly utilitarian. An austere seating area surveys a streetside scene that, during the daytime, features a forklift loading sacks of rice as pedestrians emerge from a live poultry market next door, gripping flapping chickens by the legs. Just down the street, the front room of a benevolent association brims with Fujian immigrants playing mah-jongg around... More >>>