Gascony is one of France's celebrated culinary regions. The birthplace of King Henry IV, who knew that we all need a chicken in the pot every Sunday, it is home to foie gras, confit de canard, and Armagnac. It was also home to D'Artagnan, the most famous of Dumas's musketeers, and to one of the founders of the American company of foie gras purveyors that bears his name. I'd spent a lifetime being seduced by the swashbuckling Porthos and Athos, and knew that Aramis was more than a men's cologne. I'd even met the ebullient Ariane Daguin, a one-woman ambulatory promotion board for Gascony and Gascon food. It was inevitable then that I'd find myself seated at one of the high-back chairs in the homey upstairs dining room of her new restaurant, an East Side spot that celebrates not only the musketeers... More >>>