Kuai An Hand Pull Noodles is a recent arrival to the crowd of Fujian-owned Lanzhou noodle joints in east Chinatown, occupying the space where the popular Eastern Noodles once simmered its soup. Attracted by the neon bowl flickering outside, four of us hustled in to find a handful of tables set with chopsticks, roasted chile oil, Sriracha, fish sauce, and vinegar. The one occupied seat held an enormous backpack and a small boy bent... More >>>