Named after a haunting 1940s showtune, the East Village's Old Devil Moon mounted a menu of what might be called "transgressional cuisine"—things that even the most brazen junk-food addict would concede are not particularly good for you, like Cajun nachos and chicken-fried tofu. When Northern Spy replaced it last November, it was as if the Healthy and Sustainable Fairy had descended from a recycled-water cloud, and affected the substitution with a flick of her wand. The new restaurant is aptly named after an upstate apple descended from ancient heirloom stocks. (By contrast, the owners of Braeburn, another "market-driven" establishment, blew it by picking a modern apple... More >>>