Cross Bay Boulevard is surely one of New York's most spectacular thoroughfares, sweeping over hummocks and open stretches of egret-dotted Jamaica Bay, past the precariously leaning shacks of Broad Channel, finally making solid ground in . . . Miami Beach? Well, that's what Howard Beach looks like. In its midst, the giant neon sign of Lenny's Clam Bar shines atop a shoe box of a building. A hallway clogged with pictures of celebrity devotees—among them Andre the Giant, Judge Mills Lane, and Arnold Schwarzenegger—leads to a dining room that's all marble and mirrors, with a menu that overreaches seafood to encompass barbecue and just about every Italian dish you've... More >>>